Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Beginner

  1. #1
    Anonymous Guest
    This user has no status.
     

    Default Beginner



    Hi. I am a beginner potter, and wonder if you could offer glaze recipes that I can try out for my first attempts at glazing.

    I fire stoneware to cone 6.

    Before I got a scale (and I still don't have a sieve), I tried a by volume glaze recipe. It turned out really granular, but the colour blue was nice. I believe that I will have more success using by weight recipes and by seiving the ingredients.

    I'm learning from books and such, so it's trial and error for me to some degree. I took a throwing course, but didn't learn about glazing, which is rather complicated I've found - more like a scientific experiment :?

    One more question...do you recommend adding dry to wet, or wet to dry? I've read both.
    Thanks.

  2. #2
    imported_aclift is offline Member User
    This user has no status.
     
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Redlands, CA USA
    Posts
    12

    Default Mid-Range Glazes

    Hi,
    I fire to cone 10 for functional works, although I do fire to cone 6 when firing my scupture. So the glazes I use are non functional. I am thinking you probably are more interested in functional glazes. I would recommend the book Mastering Cone six Glazes http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=c...1&a=0812217829





    As far as making a glaze - I personally add dry to wet. Many teachers, books, etc... will tell you there is only one way to do something, but really its all about what works for you the best.

    Also I would strongly recommend seiving your glazes, this will help disperse the materials and make it less granual, although you will find that some glazes will paint on your ware better than others mainly due to the insolubility of some of the raw materials you are using.
    Good Luck,
    Andy
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Andy Clift
    http://claystation.com
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

  3. #3
    Anonymous Guest
    This user has no status.
     

    Default beginning with cone 6 glazes

    hi.

    i read your post about starting to explore cone 6 glazes.

    mastering cone 6 glazes is a good book...

    so is "glazes cone 6" by michael bailey.

    you can read about it on amazon:

    http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...books&n=507846

    and many public libraries have it.

    i like bailey because he has a lot of different bases with color variations.

    in addition, he's a brit & wrote the book from a universal perspective... so when he calls for a frit, he doesn't specify a brand name, but gives the characteristics, such as "high boron"... and there are tables in the back that compares the chemical analysis of frits, so you can find one that's available to you... i find it adds to the learning.

    also... my clay bud & i tested over 60 cone 6 glazes.... and i have them in an excel spreadsheet. i can send it to you, with the usual caveats: your results will differ, and please buy the books listed as the sources, or get them out from your library.

    what else?

    i never mix smaller than 300 gram test batches.... any smaller, and i question the accuracy of my measurements, especially with colorants.

    and... i measure dry.... then mix the dry ingredients... then pour them into a container that already has water, and let it slake overnight. i find this really cuts down on the hand mixing & makes seiving MUCH easier.

    for down-to-earth glazing tips, i don't think you can' beat pete pinnell's columns on clay times. lots of info on testing glazes, making glazes, do biaxial & tri axial blends, adjusting glazes, etc.

    here's an example:

    http://www.claytimes.com/articles.htm

    good luck to you!
    Last edited by Andy Clift; 03-09-2010 at 12:30 PM.

  4. #4
    Anonymous Guest
    This user has no status.
     

    Default

    I fire, primarily, at cone 6 and have a catalog of glazes from my college days. I think any of the books or web sources mentioned will give you a couple of good base formulas; then do the bi and tri-axels as suggested and come up with something that works for you.

    Unlike the others who have responded I add wet to dry. I weigh all the chemicals, mix them dry, then add the water and let it slack overnight. Seems to work just fine.

    I can hardly believe that you're not running your glazes through a sieve, how's your consistency (or lack thereof?). I just got a Talisman sieve this past year and it's worth it's weight in gold! I used to hate mixing glazes because the first time through the sieve always ranked up there with watching paint dry for sheer excitment, but the Talisman makes all the difference in the world. If you can afford one I highly recommend it.

    Anne

  5. #5
    Emmie is offline Junior Member User
    This user has no status.
     
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Texas Hill Country
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Anonymous View Post
    hi.

    i read your post about starting to explore cone 6 glazes.

    mastering cone 6 glazes is a good book...

    so is "glazes cone 6" by michael bailey.

    you can read about it on amazon:

    http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...books&n=507846

    and many public libraries have it.

    i like bailey because he has a lot of different bases with color variations.

    in addition, he's a brit & wrote the book from a universal perspective... so when he calls for a frit, he doesn't specify a brand name, but gives the characteristics, such as "high boron"... and there are tables in the back that compares the chemical analysis of frits, so you can find one that's available to you... i find it adds to the learning.

    also... my clay bud & i tested over 60 cone 6 glazes.... and i have them in an excel spreadsheet. i can send it to you, with the usual caveats: your results will differ, and please buy the books listed as the sources, or get them out from your library.

    what else?

    i never mix smaller than 300 gram test batches.... any smaller, and i question the accuracy of my measurements, especially with colorants.

    and... i measure dry.... then mix the dry ingredients... then pour them into a container that already has water, and let it slake overnight. i find this really cuts down on the hand mixing & makes seiving MUCH easier.

    for down-to-earth glazing tips, i don't think you can' beat pete pinnell's columns on clay times. lots of info on testing glazes, making glazes, do biaxial & tri axial blends, adjusting glazes, etc.

    here's an example:

    http://www.claytimes.com/articles.htm

    good luck to you!
    ".....my clay bud & i tested over 60 cone 6 glazes..."
    I have both books and have tested many of the formulae.. Let's trade info.
    Emmie

  6. #6
    Andy Clift's Avatar
    Andy Clift is offline Administrator User
    Current Status: Working on the Claystation App
     
    Join Date
    Jan 1999
    Location
    Redlands, California US
    Posts
    3,255
    Blog Entries
    4

    Default this is a test

    see what a frit is

    Creator and Administrator: Claystation.com
    Ceramic Artist: AndyClift.com

  7. #7
    rfv6782 is offline Junior Member User
    This user has no status.
     
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    2

    Default Start up as well

    Hi i read your post and was wondering if i can get that spread sheet too. I am just starting my studio and have played with all "mastering cone 6" already....i would really appreciate it. Thanks.


    romans.ix.pottery@gmail.com


    ~ robert versele

    Quote Originally Posted by Anonymous View Post
    hi.

    i read your post about starting to explore cone 6 glazes.

    mastering cone 6 glazes is a good book...

    so is "glazes cone 6" by michael bailey.

    you can read about it on amazon:

    Amazon.com: Glazes Cone 6: 1240 C / 2264 F (Ceramics Handbooks)…

    and many public libraries have it.

    i like bailey because he has a lot of different bases with color variations.

    in addition, he's a brit & wrote the book from a universal perspective... so when he calls for a frit, he doesn't specify a brand name, but gives the characteristics, such as "high boron"... and there are tables in the back that compares the chemical analysis of frits, so you can find one that's available to you... i find it adds to the learning.

    also... my clay bud & i tested over 60 cone 6 glazes.... and i have them in an excel spreadsheet. i can send it to you, with the usual caveats: your results will differ, and please buy the books listed as the sources, or get them out from your library.

    what else?

    i never mix smaller than 300 gram test batches.... any smaller, and i question the accuracy of my measurements, especially with colorants.

    and... i measure dry.... then mix the dry ingredients... then pour them into a container that already has water, and let it slake overnight. i find this really cuts down on the hand mixing & makes seiving MUCH easier.

    for down-to-earth glazing tips, i don't think you can' beat pete pinnell's columns on clay times. lots of info on testing glazes, making glazes, do biaxial & tri axial blends, adjusting glazes, etc.

    here's an example:

    http://www.claytimes.com/articles.htm

    good luck to you!

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •